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30 August 2003
It started out OK (farmers’ market) and then went downhill. I came home and won a shouting match
with the jackass yuppie neighbors (hint: don’t mess with a fag whose mother has just been diagnosed with congestive
heart failure. I berated them into slack-jawed silence — just standing there with their mouths open like startled rodents.
I haven’t done that in a while. So unlike me.), then a visit with dear mum in the hospital, and then I get home and
couldn’t get into my building since the lock on the front door is busted. We can’t even get out that door now.
I had to have a beer at Suppenküche (a Leffe Blonde, bitte) to gather my wits. I am almost strong enough to break the lock off in the door but thought better
of it. B. took me in and gave me soup and sympathy until the neighbors got home.
And a sex club has opened just a block away. Might have to check it out.
29 August 2003
I’m not going to the Russian River this summer after all. I’m working more days than I thought this
weekend for the labile client and my mother has landed herself in the hospital with heart trouble. Not good.
28 August 2003
I thought I had a job, but now I don’t. I found out this morning that the future client is now thinking
that he doesn’t need a private chef seven days a week, but only four or five, which his current cook can cover. I was
going to work three days a week for him. He’s also changed the schedule for this weekend several times in last three
days: first a dinner for two, then a dinner for twenty, then a dinner for 8-10, and now, no dinner at all: they’ll be
gone. Oh well. Back to the poorhouse for your Cunégonde. Is this a job I should take or run from screaming?
27 August 2003
On a wall-sofa, crowned with flowers and aigrettes, sat Conca, Marchioness of Macarnudo.
“Que tal?"
“My joie de vivre is finished; still, it’s amazing how I go on!” the Marchioness answered,
making a corner for the duchess. She had known her “dearest Luiza” since the summer melted the church bells and
their rakish, pleasure-loving hearts had dissolved together. But this had not been yesterday; no; for the Marchioness was
a grandmother now.
“Conca, Conca: one sees you’re in love.”
“He’s from Avila, dear – the footman.”
“What!”
“Nothing classic – but, oh!”
“Fresh and blond? I’ve seen him.”
“Such sep . . . ”
“Sanitago be praised!”
The Marchioness of Macarnudo plied her fan.
“Our hands first met at table. . . yes, dear; but what I always say is, one spark explodes the mine!”
And with a sigh she glanced rhapsodically at her fingers, powdered and manicured and encrusted with rings. “Our hands
first met at table,” she repeated.
“And … the rest?” the duchess gasped.
“I sometimes wish, though, I resembled by sister more, who cares only for amorous, ‘delicate’
men – the Claudes, so to speak. But there it is! And, anyway, dear,” the Marchioness dropped her voice, “he
keeps me from thinking (ah perhaps more than I should) of my little grandson. Imagine, Luiza . . . Fifteen, white and vivid
rose, and ink-black hair…” And the Marchioness cast a long, pencilled eye towards the world-famous Pietà above
her head. “Queen of Heaven, defend a weak woman from that!” she besought.
---Ronald Firbank, Concerning the Eccentricities of Cardinal Pirelli
26 August 2003
Friendster at 3:50 AM. So much better than stewing in bed with insomnia. I’ve got to get some sleep
before day breaks.
25 August 2003
One of the other cooks decided that we should make a short film together called “Busser Love”
to document how cooks fall in love unrequitedly with bussers. He’s married, but he gets riled up by a slim Lolita who
comes by to vacuum the dining room in the afternoon. He won’t talk to her because it’s too dangerous to his monogamy.
As the final credits roll, we will have shots of one of the cooks who is successfully dating a busgirl.
I had my try-out dinner for the private chef job tonight. I think it went well enough, though it took me
20 minutes to light all of the candles. Eggplant sandwiches, marinated artichokes, and leeks à la vinaigrette; an iced cucumber
soup with a halibut tartare; then salmon in a tomato-spinach sauce that my grandmother used to make; and then pluot tartlettes.
I was busy. Lots of hand-washing of china and glasses. I wish I could show you the view from
the patio.
It's hot again and I'm tan again. I wish I could show you a view of my
tanline. All those Brazilian bathing suits have left a fine chiaroscuro effect.
22 August 2003
I grilled lamb tonight, with a chili-pepper and vinegar marinade à la Basquaise. Yum.
I came out to little foxy J. about trade school. He’s applying this fall too, and is taking the same
test I am in October. I’m envious because I think he has been scoring better than I did. I'm more competitive than I
like to admit. He thought I was joking about school because he only knows me as a sweaty cook and not someone with the
exalted title of “Chief Editor” in my other life, responsible for the functioning of a whole (but small) division
of a company. I fed him scraps and confessed that he could have me wrapped around his little finger if he wanted. He’s
applying to many of the same schools, so we might be classmates. Or roommates, or workout partners, or showermates…
20 August 2003
I’ve got to join a new gym or at least quit trying to go in the evening. It’s crowded, unwelcoming,
and antipathetical. It’s no longer one of Oldenburg’s Third Places for me. I don’t now have a third place (not home, not work) in San Francisco. The gym used to be the center of
my social life: I saw almost all of my friends there, I met new friends there, I met lovers there, I worked out, I relaxed,
I schmoozed, I cruised. Going there is the one constant in my daily life; I don’t have a set schedule most days; I don’t
have the same schedule week to week, but I’m there most days, even if just to ride the bike and read the paper for thirty
minutes. Time’s up.
18 August 2003
One of my biggest crushes, H., was at the gym with his new boyfriend. He has told people that the guy is
18 (H. is 32), but if the BF is a teenager, I’m 28. He has the build and the face of a handsome but grown man. At least
H. has him while he’s fresh. He’ll look 50 in a few years. Meow.
Welcome to wrong-guy-weekend: H. spurns me for a con man, and chaps I have no interest in are overly familiar
with me at El Rio. Herradura makes for a nicely consolatory margarita, though. Tears work as well as salt around
the rim.
I went to Ikea and, thanks to my iron will, emerged with only one article. I now have a tiny half-round
table in my kitchen, and I can finally eat sitting down. It’s time. I’ve had breakfast standing up every day for
the last two years. I thought at first that it would help me get going faster in the mornings, but the data from over
700 in situ observations suggest that my initial hypothesis had no merit. I put the kettle on, fill the tea strainer, dash
downstairs en déshabille, get the papers, turn to the comics, wait for
the water to come to a boil, make the tea (so far so good), and then read the paper until I'm no longer hungry or eat until
I've finished reading.
16 August 2003
Up early and to the farmers’ market with J., a learned cook. I told him that I had been reading John
Evelyn’s Diary, and he knew that Evelyn was also famous for Acetaria: a Discourse of Sallets (1699), one of
the earliest books in English on salads.We got: quail, baby leeks, a flat of San Marzano tomatoes to split between us, basil,
peppers, bread from Acme, Pink Pearl apples, a bit of pork for the sauce tonight, and, just to be showy, a glass of wine at
9AM in the new wine bar in the Ferry Building. To paraphrase R.W. Apple, Jr., I can testify that Alsatian Riesling makes an
excellent breakfast wine.
And Happy Madonna’s Birthday, to those of you who still worship at that altar.
15 August 2003
Cooking tip of the day: don’t rub your eyes after you’ve cut up a bunch of hot peppers.
Darkness visible and tea lights: a great description of the blackout.
14 August 2003
I woke up this morning in a panic because I remembered that I have to turn in my taxes on Friday. Yikes.
I wonder if I can get another extension until October.
A good day of cooking. The goat was amazingly good. We had to play Jesus two days ago because the lamb
and the kid carcasses in the walk-in got mixed up. Since they all came headless from the same halal slaughterhouse, it was
hard to tell them apart. We decided that the lambs have wider tails. I made fideus* for the first time — pasta cooked like risotto in a shellfish broth. It was one of those days where each cook got
to make the dish he wanted and everything rocked. I imagined cooking it this morning: toasting the pasta, killing the lobster,
cleaning the crab, making the sofregit, waiting for the broth to come up to a boil, straining it, pounding the debris in a
china cap to extract every last drop, and so forth. I had visualized almost every step before I even got to work.
__________
* The recipe is in Catalan, but if you know French or Spanish, you can read it. It's
not exactly what I made, but it will give you the idea.
13 August 2003
I applied for yet another job. Perhaps the logjam is clearing. My brother-in-law phoned to try to convince
me not to consider the job at his company.
Delicious dinner with D. tonight at Day’s Inn Sushi (it has another name, but no one remembers it).
He told me about his trip to New York, his sexcapades (“I don’t know if I should move there because I could have
too much sex”), his visit (!) with Louise Bourgeois, and his visit to DIA Beacon, where he finally got Richard Serra. We both had the same impression: the sculptures don’t
make sense until you walk through them and around them. My understanding came a few weeks ago at the private chef job late
one afternoon. Preoccupied, I had a fistful of rosemary in one hand and lemons in the other as I went past the rusty curve
on the back lawn and finally saw it. I had to stop there for a few minutes before I could go inside and cook again.
D. is ready to move to New York just to get away from the small-town stuck-up guys here. He has threatened
to tell more than one princess at the gym that she can’t have so much attitude when she has posted pictures of herself with her ass in the air for all the world to see on the Internet. Curious about who
this might be? Go to BigMuscle.com and refine your search to guys 33-45 from San Francisco and you’ll find most of them.
13 August 2003
I got an unexpected call this morning offering me a part-time private chef job. I said I’d think
about it for 24 hours. I will take the job if I can get the pay rate up to something reasonable. It would be a lot of work,
and I’d have to learn to cook in a kosher kitchen. My partner the other four days a week would be someone I've cooked
with before. He's hardworking, and we're on the same page. I'm afraid, though, that he was poorly represented by his agency
and is underpaid. If I ask for more than he's making, it will be awkward. Fuck it. I don't want to be taken advantage
of by some rich but cheap creep.
I will do a feng shui cure to activate the finance corner of my apartment tomorrow morning.
11 August 2003
It’s a warm night, the windows are open, and one of my neighbors is practicing the accordion at midnight.
What makes sex good? kissing, the devil in his eye, nice arms, good hair, a firm touch, and talking — either describing it or spinning into fantasy. It’s
such a marvel how you can intuit a stranger’s own fantasy and give it to him.
Of course, if your piggy bottom is getting all talkative and bossy, you can put him in back his place when
you tell him: “Shut up. And don't touch your dick.” He’ll start to cum right then unless you slow down.
10 August 2003
I picked up a copy of John Evelyn’s Diary on the way to the gym. I had it with me when I was working out (shoulders), but I had to put it back in the locker as
my rests between sets became longer and longer. The Diary didn’t prevent me from meeting a chunky little pierced future
chum, L. Something good will come of this.
Three good articles
in the NY Times today about gay marriage and gay styling. Did your father show you how to shave?
I had my favorite
breakfast of polenta alla Laura (fried polenta with maple syrup), and I made a confit of the salmon I bought yesterday.
So much for Spa Week.
9 August 2003
What do you do when someone says that he’s in a monogamous relationship but you know from personal
experience that his boyfriend isn’t? Hey, I thought if the boyfriend was fooling around with me, he must be in an open
relationship. I think I will just keep my mouth shut.
C. wasn’t with me at the farmers' market, so I didn’t stay long: walnuts from Sally, wild salmon,
Faye Alberta peaches, dry-farmed tomatoes, and Hungarian wax peppers.
I’ve seen P. from my favorite grocery store two days in a row now. I’ve had a crush on him
for about 10 years. We’re the same age, in analogous quandaries, back at jobs we once quit and are trying to plan a
future; school or not school; employee or employer; stay or go. We had a nice talk about emigrating from the U.S. He already
knows where he wants to go and what he'll do there. Leaving has been on my mind again. Our Leader is not making things better.
One billion dollars a week in Iraq and almost nothing to show for it. I don’t want to be stuck here when it’s
too late to flee.
Another long day of cooking (two hundred squash blossoms to stuff and two hundred quenelles to form, and
then two hundred to roast and two hundred to poach), and little foxy J. wasn’t even there. Once he gave me the hint
last night, I kept feeding him tidbits of grilled sweetbreads. Flirting with food (and flirting by eating someone's food).
He has me wrapped around his little finger, and he knows I know that nothing will ever come of it. I couldn’t
date someone who didn’t like my cooking.
7 August 2003
I had my date with the redhead. I was too much for the poor thing. What possessed me to tell him that I
didn’t care for children and couldn’t stand to be around them or even hear them? What was I thinking? I knew he
was an elementary school teacher. We went to a new tea shop in the Castro that I will have to revisit when I’m not with
someone who is content with iced hibiscus tea when he could choose from 6 kinds of pu erh or dozens of green teas, black teas,
and white teas. Catch up, hunny. Besides, he has pale skin (I can’t go there). And yes, a tan redhead would be double-f,
double-r, e-a-k-y.
Work was hard. We got slammed. My stuffed tomatoes were a quite nice
(just herbs, no breadcrumbs, 50 minutes at 400F), and the crispy potatoes were just what one wants. (Your cooking tip of the
day: peel and cut the potatoes into even pieces and boil them very gently in salty water until the edges start to crumble.
This last bit is key. The potatoes must be fully cooked. You will lose some of them. Scoop them out of the water
and let them cool flat, in one layer. Don’t try to pour the potatoes out into a colander. If you’ve cooked them
properly, dumping them out will only crush them. Fry in plenty of clarified butter, duck fat, lard, or olive oil. When
they're nicely browned, drain and sprinkle with salt. Serve promptly.) Little foxy J. was there, but I was working so
hard I kept my head down and had no time to flirt or feed him potatoes on the sly.
And mulberries are in season! The best news of the day.
5 August 2003
It’s spa week here in Hayes Valley. I had too many cupcakes for breakfast in Vancouver (note: see
first entry this month for address) and too much beer. To that end, a visit to the gym last night as soon as I got home, a
light dinner of tofu and broccoli with whole grains, a session with the trainer tomorrow, and yoga this evening. A new teacher
for me, good-spirited and encouraging. She had us sweating and breathing loudly and tipping over within the first 10 minutes.
Breathe. Plank and exhale. Inhale into upward dog. Exhale into downward dog. Breathe. I should have done this long ago. It’s
so much better than massage for undoing the knots in my back and working out the kinks elsewhere. My groin is widely openable
tonight, if you care to visualize that.
S&P Daddy walked into the showers just as I did. A Scorpio. My trainer filled me in: he has a boyfriend,
a great job, and is maybe one year older than me, not seven or eight years older, as I had thought. Still… (it’s
thick and fat, like a baby’s arm).
I met a spunky redhead in the Castro this afternoon as I was running errands. Gotta love that sleeveless
Zara shirt I got in N.Y. He was a little bowled over by the number and breadth of the opinions I volunteered. My penchant
for pontification (just like you, Dad) gets me in trouble again. A psychic once told me that I was a high official in the
Catholic Church in a recent previous life. I hope I was the cardinal in charge of Propaganda Fides. The current holder of that office and his boss have done more to make Catholicism irrelevant than a even a Baptist mole could have. As
Rimpoche said, only your bad habits get reincarnated with you. We’ll see if the redhead calls me to have coffee or if
he thinks better of it.
Yet another friend is moving to L.A. He found a better job and will find a cheaper place to live than the
thin-walled trapezoid he’s in now. He divides San Francisco fags into four camps: aging hippies, speed freaks, leather
guys who've taken it too far, and a few young brats who are too busy drinking and watching Will ‘n’ Grace
to be amusing or attractive.
One last impression of Vancouver: it’s what San Francisco could have been if we had planned better
20 years ago and hadn’t stayed so self-satisfied.
4 August 2003
More things I loved about Vancouver: the sweet and low-key parade; going to the rugby team’s beer
bust on Sunday after the parade; meeting cute and friendly guys there (one of whom I slapped across the mouth when he introduced
us as three guys from L.A.); the circuity party at the Armory (imagine: me, sober, and enjoying a circuit party); meeting
only one guy with attitude (but when you’re that beautiful, perhaps you have to be standoffish); the way that even muscular guys have skinny arms (so I fit right in); the many proudly butterball guys
(I’m going to get me one of those chunksters the next time I visit); finding something I could wear at Zara on Robson
Street; being asked a dozen times on Sunday, “So, are you going oat tonight?”; and huge blackberries. Dislikes
or rather puzzlements: the “heritage” music played at every bar and club but the last (did the DJs stop buying
records when NAFTA went into effect?), the lack of beer after the parade (WTF? The beer pen doesn’t count), state-run
liquor stores (WTF?), the cheesy décor and poor lighting at all of the parties, and having to come back home.
What awaits: going to bed before 3AM; the job search, laundry, trade school application, therapy, a big
thank-you note, and cooking.
3 August 2003
Vancouver! It’s not the grey, grimy port town I visited
in 1981. I'm staying in Coal Harbour. We've been riding bikes everywhere. Things I've loved so far: the weather, the sea breezes,
the sound of seagulls (which reminds me of elementary school), taking a walk in Stanley Park and picking blackberries along
the seawall, running into an old friend from San Francisco at Wreck's Beach, riding our bikes to dinner at West last night
and watching the fireworks competition from a bridge on the way back, dinner at Hapa Izakaya Friday night, the huge outdoor
swimming pool at Second Beach, the cupcake shop on Denman, the way "yeah" is pronounced with two full syllables and no glottal
stop, and everyone’s general earnestness. White people here are so very white. I'm trying to wrap my mind around it.
Not enough time has passed for racial mixing to produce much in the way of adult mutts. Touching report: we've been to four
or five big clubs and parties, but I didn't manage to pick anyone up until I was walking home last night. I made him beg for
the pony ride.
For those of you arriving from Google, the cupcake shop on Denman
is:
OK Cupcakes at 1116 Denman (near Davie). Tel.: 604-974-1300. Open 9AM to 11PM,
weekends to midnight. Highly recommended.
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